Hot Springs Canyon Trail in Big Bend National Park

Far West Texas

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The high desert in Far West Texas has a certain something that calls to me, and though it’s been less than a year since I’d camped in The Davis Mountains and Marfa, I wanted to go back.

The weather was good, the crowds were low, I had the time and so did my boyfriend, so we packed up the car and headed west.

We took our time exploring Marfa. We stayed a few days in the middle of the week, enjoying the empty feeling of the place (though tracking down meals became a game of cat and mouse), and took day trips to swim in Balmorhea Pool, attend a Star Party at the McDonald Observatory, and check out some art installations along Highway 90.

Soaking up the things that make Marfa different.
A yucca plant at El Cosmico.
We stayed at El Cosmico, a hip hotel/campground that offers unusual lodging like teepees, yurts, and travel trailers.
Our teepee at El Cosmico.
We got a teepee which felt incredibly romantic…until I was startled by a camel spider who decided to hang out on the canvas wall all night (I had never seen one before and thought it looked seriously creepy. Like if a scorpion and a tarantula had a baby!). Luckily, it had moved on by the morning.
Toes sticking out of hot tub.
One night was spent soaking in one of El Cosmico’s wood-fired Dutch hot tubs. It was perfection!
A nightime view of the observatory.
The McDonald Observatory during their Star Party, where we got the chance to look at stars through several large telescopes.
The Giant Marfa Mural
Spotted along Highway 90: “The Giant Marfa Mural” by John Cerney.

After Marfa, we headed to Big Bend National Park for two days of camping and hiking, stopping in Terlingua on the way.

The ghost town in Terlingua.
Cemetery in Terlingua Ghost Town
Terlingua Ghost Town’s cemetery, which is still actively used. We found many types of offerings to the dead, but beer and liquor were the most popular.
Stunning views while hiking the Hot Springs Canyon Trail in Big Bend.
A yucca along the trail in Big Bend.
I took so many pictures while hiking! How could I not, surrounded by beauty like this? I’m excited to begin working on a series of paintings inspired by this trip.
The Rio Grande along the Hot Springs Canyon trail in Big Bend
The Rio Grande brings life to the arid landscape. We even spied some wild horses near its banks.
The sun set at Langford Hot Springs.
We arrived at the hot springs just in time to catch the sunset.
A blooming cactus on the hike into Santa Elena Canyon.
Blooming cactus along the hike into Santa Elena Canyon.
Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park
The Rio Grande running through Santa Elena Canyon. The Rio Grande marks the border between the US and Mexico and we heard many hikers, wading out into the river, joking that they’d crossed over (Mexico on the left, the US on the right). Of course, even if you did cross over, there’d be nothing around for miles except dry, sun-scorched desert.
At the Chisos Basin campground, stars were visible down to the horizon, even with the moon out.

On our way out of Big Bend we stopped in Marathon, which proved to be much cuter and friendlier than expected. I was so charmed by it, I decided that I must return on my next trip out west. From there, we made our way east and then to a little-known and very remote state park along Devils River.

We stayed two nights and enjoyed a spectacular night sky. The river is difficult to reach (the campsite was miles down a rutted dirt road, offered no water or even a toilet, and an additional drive and then mile-something hike was required to reach the river) which meant that we only had one day to enjoy the water.

So, we packed up our snorkels, a big lunch, some wine, lots of water, and headed through the desert in search of the river.

Devils River State Natural Area
The glorious Devils River, an oasis at the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert.
A selfie by the spring at Devils River
The whole day was spent hiking, swimming, picnicking, and snorkeling. I was thrilled! The perfect end to a week in the desert.

This was such an inspiring trip, by its end I felt filled up with ideas and a drive to create. I also felt a shift in my personal life become solidified. There’s a simplicity in the desert that I’ve been longing for. I think it’s one of the reasons I always want to go back. Every time, I feel a little clearer on what I want, what I want to create, and who I want to be.

Surrounded by nothing but desert, time stretches out and I get more in tune with my thoughts and feelings. It’s a wonderful thing to realize and to know that if I’m ever feeling frazzled and lost I can always travel west and return to myself.

5 thoughts on “Far West Texas”

  1. Really beautiful photos and heartfelt story of your trip. I look forward to your artwork inspired from your journey! Thanks for sharing Cara! đź’ś

  2. Perfect clear views on your insight into a magical place on the ‘edge of the universe’ as I think of this area. Your photos are fabulous!

  3. Will your paintings now be 400 feet long?
    Given the images you have, I wouldn’t be surprised…
    What a great trip and wonderful accounting of it, thanks for sharing.

  4. Hi, Cara! Love this. I went on a hiking/camping trip with some friends to hike the tallest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, back in May. It’s way out west like Big Bend, only north of there, near the border of New Mexico. Treated ourselves to a nice hotel in Van Horn afterwards, Hotel El Capitan. Love the feeling of being out there.

    1. Thanks Matt! I’ll definitely check that out – it sounds like a lovely trip and a great place to stop on the way into New Mexico.

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