A Grand Adventure

All that training paid off – I’m just back from hiking around 30 miles, and I’m not even that sore! Even though the hike out was a grueling, all-uphill, baking-in-the-midday-sun saga, my body recovered really quickly. I feel strong, uplifted, and am wondering: where should I go next?

This was my first backpacking trip and now that I have a taste for it (and the right gear), I’m starting to look around for some 3-5 day trips in the Austin area. If you have any suggestions, please share!

This adventure was pretty fast-paced. We drove from Austin to Albuquerque on day 1, stopping for the night at the funky and comfy Sandia Peak Inn. Along Route 66, this casual hotel sported a vintage sign and some unique decor.

Weirdness along Route 66. This photo was taken further west, closer to our next stop at Grand Canyon Caverns.
Weirdness along Route 66. This photo was taken further west, closer to our next stop at Grand Canyon Caverns.

Day 2 had us driving right past Meteor Crater, so we had to stop and see just what a giant hole in the ground looks like. It turned out to be pretty awe-inspiring and definitely worth the price of admission.

“Best preserved meteorite crater on Earth”

We spent that night at the wacky Gand Canyon Caverns Inn which is more than a hotel, it’s also a: dinosaur petting zoo, cave, golf course, 50s diner, airstrip, and definitely a photo op. After dinner, we anxiously and meticulously packed everything we’d need for the next three nights in the Grand Canyon.

The lobby at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn.
The lobby at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn.

Day 3 started before sunrise. We grabbed breakfast and drove to the trailhead for our 10 mile hike down into the Havasupai Indian Reservation. Completely surrounded by the Grand Canyon National Park, Havasupai is considered one of America’s most remote Indian Reservations and their village, Supai, is only accessible by foot, horse, or helicopter. There are no paved roads in Supai; it’s the only place in the U.S. where mail is still carried out by mules.

Hiking down into the Grand Canyon.
Hiking down into the Grand Canyon.

We were asked not to photograph anyone or thing in the village. We saw only a handful of public buildings (a grocery store, post office, tourism office, a small convenience-type store that seemed to be geared more toward tourists) and walked by a number of homes, all simply-built with small yards. Most of the land that I saw was taken up by horse pastures and dotted with blooming moonflowers. Reggae music wafted out of a barn.

Lower Navajo Falls, my first glimpse of the blue-green water that runs through Havasu Falls and eventually into the Colorado River. I was elated to see this heavenly sight.
Lower Navajo Falls, my first glimpse of the blue-green water that runs through Havasu Falls and eventually into the Colorado River. I was elated to see this heavenly sight.

We got to the campground later than expected and found ourselves without a formal campsite, instead having to set up our tents in small openings between the trees. But it all worked out; the next morning several of our neighbors left, leaving us a nice site to move into. We were next to the river and near the top of Mooney Falls, which drop over 200 feet into the narrow canyon.

Looking down from the top of Mooney Falls.
Looking down from the top of Mooney Falls.
Although a bit scary, the edge of the falls was one of my favorite spots to relax.
Although a bit scary, the edge of the falls was one of my favorite spots to relax.

We spent most of our time swimming or resting near one of the three falls closest to our campsite. We ate delicious Fry Bread and Indian Tacos from a small stand some of the locals operated near the campground. On our last night we stayed up to watch the stars come out and were treated to one of the best shooting stars I’ve ever seen…a glittery star streaking across the sky, over a waterfall, between steep canyon walls…magic!

Havasu Falls.
Havasu Falls.
I love how the travertine forms these pools, perfect for swimming.
I love how the travertine forms these pools, perfect for swimming.
The campground is split by the creek in some areas; creatively-built bridges are everywhere.
The campground is split by the creek in some areas; creatively-built bridges are everywhere.

Three nights just wasn’t enough in this Heaven On Earth and I was feeling sad as we packed up and began our hike out. We left later than expected and took our time, but as the sun’s rays intensified and we left the protection of the deep canyon, I struggled. I pushed myself to get up the switchbacks and ran out of water as soon as I reached the trailhead. Thankfully, I had a car full of snacks and drinks waiting for me.

That evening, back at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn, we were treated to a beautiful sunset during dinner, hot showers, and real beds. I was exhausted. But the next day I was feeling surprisingly spry as we began our drive to Tucson. I’d found a scenic drive through Saguaro National Park I was excited about. But as we neared Phoenix, I was blown away by the number of saguaro growing on the side of the highway. These giant cacti that I’d dreamed of my whole life were suddenly real, and everywhere!

I find the saguaro desert absolutely enchanting and by the time we got to the scenic drive the sun was setting – slowly turning into the most electric orange/peach/blue sky I’ve ever seen. It was stunning. I wish I had more pictures, but I was driving!

On the Bajada Loop drive, Saguaro National Park West
On the Bajada Loop drive, Saguaro National Park West

On the last leg of our journey, we stopped to visit the permanent art piece called “Prada, Marfa” before grabbing a beer at Lost Horse Saloon in Marfa, Texas, and heading to a campsite in Davis Mountains State Park. That little taste of Marfa and the surrounding area has me craving a longer visit. There’s so much to do!

"Prada, Marfa" by Elmgreen and Dragset.
“Prada, Marfa” by Elmgreen and Dragset.

I want to go back in the spring, camp at Davis Mountains and take day trips to explore Marfa, the spring-fed pool at Balmorhea, and attend a Star Party at the McDonald Observatory. I want to take time to soak in the unique character of West Texas.

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If you’re a fan of Havasu Falls, check out this sticker I made for the trip:

I took 50 stickers with me to give away as gifts to the natives and fellow hikers and I was blown away by the response. Everyone was so grateful and enthusiastic about the design!